Library treasure V

By: Jantiene van Elk

For the real knitters, two complete patterns: caterpillar lacework and 'simple stairs' border.

Editor of this book, Elisabeth Rogge, was involved in women´s craft since the end of the nineteenth century. She organised exhibitions and published and edited journals and publications on arts and crafts, interior design and clothing.

Together with Louise Thomson she edited this book. At first, they wanted to give it the title: 'Grootmoeder´s breiboek voor haar kleindochter Louise' as it is based on the patterns grandmother Thomson collected for her granddaughter.

Grandmother Thomson designed the patterns in the middle of the nineteenth century. Her granddaughter kept the patterns, and published them, as there was a revival of women´s crafts in those days.

In the book are photo´s and drawings of all kinds of knitted borders, with full instructions for knitters.

Kant-breiwerk naar oude patronen / door Louise Thomson en Elis M. Rogge. - Amsterdam : Van Holkema & Warendorf, [s.a.].

Vrouwen in vormgeving 1880-1940 / Marjan Groot. - Rotterdam :010, 2007.

You can find more on Elis. M. Rogge in the Biografisch Woordenboek van Nederland

Workshop Layering in knits

By: Petra Vonk

Yes, the first day workshop layering in knits is fully booked! During the preparation of this workshop we have again discovered some wonderful effects with the laser. Using the laser I get surprises all the time, I must say. All fabrics react differently, all pictures or computer files used end up different as to be expected. For me the starting point of this workshop has been layering and the use of transparency in knits. Using several layers of really open knitted mohair and combine these with high-tech lasered lace. Punch, embroider, stitch or knit the layers together and a beautiful piece of fabric is created.

During the workshop on the 12 of may the first thing we will do is have a closer look at the knitting of the mohair panels. There will be a brief explanation about the knit machine and we can see the fabric being knit especially for us. The mohair is knitted in white, light and dark grey. To do the laser tests there will be a choice in 3 different type of fabrics; cotton look, crepe and voile. Also there are several choices in shapes. All the fabrics come in white but after lasering your own lace you can give colour to the lace. By transferring a self prepared colour on paper on the lasered lace by ironing.

In the short movie you can have an idea what lasering on textiles is all about.



See you at the workshop on Tuesday 12/5/2009!

Library treasure IV

By: Jantiene van Elk

Knitting was for centuries a professional craft for both men and women. Knitting became a useful leisure activity for women from the middle class at the end of the eighteenth century. In times of war and economic malaise knitting as a means of providing for the need for clothing always gained in importance and it was par excellence a task for women.

This pattern book is a perfect illustration of knitting as a means of providing cheap clothing. The title gives this away: 'For big boys and girls from age 8-16 with leftover yarn'. Like most of these old pattern books, number 416 from the Groote Hollandsche Beyer-serie doesn´t have a date. It does remind me of a picture of my mother and her twin brother in their Holy Communion clothes. My mother hated the stiff clothes.

Voor groote jongens en meisjes van 8-15 jaar van resten uitgehaalde wol / Beyer. - Amsterdam Wereldmode, [s.a.]. (Groote Hollandsche Beyer-serie ; H 416)

The Art of Knitting : inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces

By: Jantiene van Elk

Francoise Tellier Loumagne has taught textile and knit design for more than thirty years. With this experience, she made a series of beautiful The Art of textile books. The books are an inspiration to professional textile designers and students and to anyone working with or with an interest in textiles.

About the The Art of Knitting :

"(...) I decided to create a book that will try to change the way in which knitted textiles are perceived, and so encourage readers to personally express themselves. I hope it will be a work that builds a bridge between technicians and vice versa, and that makes communication more 'objective' and more creative; a clear source of information that allows new pathways of innovation to be discovered." (from the Introduction by Francoise Tellier-Loumagne)

In the book you can find patterns for industrial and domestic knitting machines, and for hand knitting. The techniques for each are explained. Simple knits, jacquards, fine jersey knits, interlock, open work and many other fabric types are explained. Inspiration for the author is the natural world and one´s personal surroundings. The sources of inspiration and the fabrics are presented next to each other.

The Art of Knitting : inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces / Francoise Tellier-Loumagne. - London : Thames & Hudson, 2005.

Francoise Tellier-Loumagne´s other books (The Art of Embroidery and The Art of Felt) are also available in the Textile Museum´s library.

Library treasure III

By: Jantiene van Elk

After the First World War, women´s emancipation had a huge influence on fashion. A boyish look, with flat chest and little waist, was in fashion. Paul Poiret, parisian couturier, banned the corset.

At the same time, underwear became more comfortable. In this picture you can see some examples of this comfortable underwear. A camisole with straight nekcline, knickers, a camisole with a V-neckline, and a bra, all knitted.

Unfortunately the patterns for these underwear garments are missing, because I love 1930s fashion a lot!

Nieuw gehaakte en gebreide kleeding / Otto Beyer. - [s.i.] : Beyer, [ca. 1930]. (Beyer´s handwerkboeken : serie H ; nr. 63)

Stretch knitting yarn

By: Lise Lefebvre

The museum's Yarn Library (Garenbank) has recently sourced a new stretch yarn blend, very suitable for the advanced knitting technique called Knit and Wear. This specific technique makes it possible to knit entire garments, for instance sweaters or trousers, without seams. To render this possible, the Stoll knitting machines available at the TextielLab are engineered to use only every other needle of the needle beds to allow the stitches to be transfered from the front and back bed.

While it makes knitting elaborate tubular fabrics possible, it also makes the results very open, as the yarn "skips'' every other stich. This is where the stretch yarn comes in: in the knitting process the yarn is slightly stretched as it forms the stitches, and in turn creates a fuller, denser fabric when the knitting is finished. The elasticity of the yarn is also very helpful as it prevents the yarn from breaking in the very demanding movements of the needles during this special knitting process.

This particular yarn is a comfortable blend of Viscose and Elastil, a stretchy form of polyester. It has a very soft touch with a slight shine to it.

For more information, contact Lise Lefebvre at the Audax Textielmuseum Tilburg /Textile Lab.

Knitted Worlds in the TextileShop

By: Suzan Russeler

Christien Meindertsma is one of the designers whose knitted products are sold in the TextileShop of our museum. Her well-known stool, called Urchin Pouf, is knitted from thick felted woolen yarn. This oversized, stuffed stool can be used as soft seating or object to play with. Meindertsma also developed a special do-it-yourself-knitting-set with naturally dyed yarns.

Another interior product is the KaLaKabellampe by young German designer Jana Walliser. Walliser combines craftsmanship and industrial production ´hiding´ the power cord in a plastic tube of jointed elements and a knitted cover. The flexible tube plays the main part in the design. You can bend it in every shape you want. A knitted tube Walliser also used for a set of necklaces, available in different measurements and colours.

From knitting designer Petra Vonk beautiful, light scarfs from cotton or mohair combined with lace are available.

Do you feel inspired to knit yourself? In the shop you´ll find selected yarns like bamboo yarn, glow-in-the-dark-yarn or knitted linen ribbon.

Photo: Urchin Pouf and craft product by Christien Meindertsma, KaLaKabelLampe by Jana Walliser