KNITTED WORLDS – Goodbye!

By: Suzan Russeler

To everything comes an end. After three month living amidst Knitted Worlds me and my colleagues started to tear off the exhibition last Sunday evening. Fragment of a building # 1 was the last work to be deconstructed and Désirée did it herself.

We received many positive reactions on the exhibition from visitors (nearly 15.000 visitors during the exhibition) and press, but also critical comment. Art critics liked the focus on politics, feminism and identity in relation to knitting, but didn´t appreciate that much the variety of works.

While researching I was especially triggered by the richness of issues expressed in works dealing with knitting. Of course, politics and female identity play a central role in quite some art works we presented and maybe these works are most overtly intriguing. However the more poetic, silent pieces, like the dresses of Nanna van Blaaderen to me contrasted in an interesting way with f.e. the subversive, more explicit works of Jimini Hignett, bringing up issues of feminism and politics.

Visitors could make up their mind - for everybody who didn´t had the chance to see the exhibition hopefully the catalogue will be a ´substitute´. All works are wrapped up now, ready to be returned while others like the Sunflowers of Maria Roosen will dream in the depository of our museum until they will be woken up because somebody is longing for them……….

I would like to thank all participating artists, lending parties, the designers Annemarie van den Berg en Cecilia Hendrikx for the design of the exhibition and catalogue, my colleagues, visitors of exhibition and website for being part of Knitted Worlds for some moment.

Library treasure VII

By: Jantiene van Elk

This image needs no further comments by me. May be the readers of this blog want to comment?

Nomotta kousen en handschoenen. - Salach, Wtbg : Schachenmayr, Mann & Cie, [s.a.]. (Nomotta serie ; 103.

Library treasure VI

By: Jantiene van Elk

'Een zeer gewichtig punt bij het vervaardigen van kunstbreiwerk, is het afwerken der kleedjes, en de rand kan in sommige gevallen een heel eenvoudig kleedje een veel sierlijker en fraaier aanzien geven.'

It´s important to make nice trimmings to your craft work, because it will give your work a finer and more elegant look!

Kunst-breien : 73 nieuwe patronen voor gebreide kanten en kleedjes benevens een technische bescrhijving/ door J. Weinbeck. -Alkmaar : Kluitman, [192?].

Interview with an exhibition guide

By: Suzan Russeler

Lately I talked with my colleague Esther van den Borne, who is working as a designer and also as a guide in our museum. Esther was very enthusiastic about Knitted Worlds and her experience with groups.

`I´m happy with this exhibition because it challenges people and triggers them to think. Mostly I give guided tours to high school and art students, or to groups with some special interest. That means that people are reasonably well informed about the subject matter. When you enter the exhibition hall straight ahead you see the artworks of ´knit´ pioneers like Rosemarie Trockel and Elaine Reichek. Some of those works aren´t that easy to read. But, luckily right across of these works there is this very illustrative film of Dave Cole, called The Knitting Machine.

Two excavators, holding enormous knitting needles, move back and forth while the artist himself puts some XL yarn in a loop around the needles, thus knitting the American flag. People like watching this film and immediately understand the interrelation between art and knitting. So that blow up of the act of knitting by Dave Cole is a very good point of reference for other more subtle art works.
This start up of my tour also offers the opportunity to switch from the art aspect to more technical aspects of knitting, material and texture depending on the interest of the group.

The works of Jimini Hignett and Jayne Parker some visitors, mainly elderly or youngsters, experience as quite confronting.

However if you tell them that the works are an artistic reaction on social and artistic issues people can deal with it, discuss it. The funny thing is that they seem to feel relieved they aren´t expected to appreciate the works in terms of beauty.


Photo´s: Joep Vogels (Audax Textielmuseum Tilburg)

Designing a Knitwear Collection : from inspiration to finished garments

By: Jantiene van Elk

From sportswear and sweaters to lingerie and couture, knitwear accounts for most of the apparel we wear. (...) Both students and professionals will find inspiration from the gallery of work by knitwear designers on display here - from icons such as Chanel, Sonia Rykiel, and Missoni to today´s hottest practitiones such as Stella McCarthy, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander McQueen. (from the back text)

And more: history of the industry, basics of yarn selection, stitch patterns, and CAD programs, etc.

A great book for the Textile museum´s library, interesting for the knitters in the Textile Lab, especially for the textile students. It´s historical and practical!

Designing a knitwear collection : from inspiration to finished garments / Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza ; Marilyn Hefferen. - New York : Fairchild books, 2008.

Social knitting in the UK and Belgium

By: Jantiene van Elk

As librarian, I try to keep up with lots of information for my colleagues. I follow a lot of weblogs and read magazines and journals. I found some interesting posts on art and social knitting in Belgium and in the UK:

First a guerrilla knitting project in Scotland: Luib na Lùban, a new
textile art group in Skye and Lochalsh, invites Scots, ex-pats, Scotophiles and anyone else to take part in an ambitious project to cover the Skye Bridge in knitting!! The Skye Bridge links the Isle of Skye with the mainland in the West Highlands of Scotland.

Toos van Liere wrote me an e-mail to promote her art project artPlastiquefabrique, guerilla knitting with plastic bags. Read her weblog.

The last project I found was on the BCC news: Knitted village of Mersham, a Kent village with 100 features including teenagers smoking in a bus shelter. The model of Mersham, near Ashford, has been knitted by members of the village's 40-strong Afternoon Club over the past 23 years.

Photo: from website, by Axel Claes

Knitting – For Women Only?

By: Jana Walliser

At first glance, knitting appears to be something only women do. When you think about knitting, you might have that picture of an elderly woman in her rocking chair in your mind, surrounded by her grandchildren wearing nothing but knitted clothes from head to toe.

Today, many young people do not know how to knit. Their hands are used to operating a computer mouse, to typing on a keyboard or to pressing keys. Holding two knitting needles as well as the wool in your hands feels like visiting an Asian restaurant for the first time. Starving and looking at a plate full of rice, you'll have to try and eat your food just using those two chopsticks. Too bad if you are really hungry! There are many people who do not know how to knit. Beginners, in particular, need a lot of time to create their first masterpiece. Stitch by stitch, row by row. You have got to have the right feeling, patience and concentration for this.

But where does all that knitwear which you cannot even tell it was knitted come from? A closer look reveals that there must by high-tech knitting machines capable of knitting even the most complicated patterns in no time. And that's where you find the men! They operate these giant knitters and they see to it that thousands of jumpers and gloves leave their machines ready to be sold. You see, knitting is not for women only and it is not necessarily about handcraft, either, though you might not have guessed that at first.

Kala, the cable lamp which is displayed at the exhibition KNITTED WORLDS, is surrounded by a 5 meter long, knitted tube composed of thousands of meshes. Impossible to knit all of these knitted tubes manually. It is hard to believe in what way those knitting machines are capable of knitting even the smallest meshes – that is simply fascinating!
Kala is available now in the TextielShop of the Textielmuseum.

Library treasure V

By: Jantiene van Elk

For the real knitters, two complete patterns: caterpillar lacework and 'simple stairs' border.

Editor of this book, Elisabeth Rogge, was involved in women´s craft since the end of the nineteenth century. She organised exhibitions and published and edited journals and publications on arts and crafts, interior design and clothing.

Together with Louise Thomson she edited this book. At first, they wanted to give it the title: 'Grootmoeder´s breiboek voor haar kleindochter Louise' as it is based on the patterns grandmother Thomson collected for her granddaughter.

Grandmother Thomson designed the patterns in the middle of the nineteenth century. Her granddaughter kept the patterns, and published them, as there was a revival of women´s crafts in those days.

In the book are photo´s and drawings of all kinds of knitted borders, with full instructions for knitters.

Kant-breiwerk naar oude patronen / door Louise Thomson en Elis M. Rogge. - Amsterdam : Van Holkema & Warendorf, [s.a.].

Vrouwen in vormgeving 1880-1940 / Marjan Groot. - Rotterdam :010, 2007.

You can find more on Elis. M. Rogge in the Biografisch Woordenboek van Nederland

Workshop Layering in knits

By: Petra Vonk

Yes, the first day workshop layering in knits is fully booked! During the preparation of this workshop we have again discovered some wonderful effects with the laser. Using the laser I get surprises all the time, I must say. All fabrics react differently, all pictures or computer files used end up different as to be expected. For me the starting point of this workshop has been layering and the use of transparency in knits. Using several layers of really open knitted mohair and combine these with high-tech lasered lace. Punch, embroider, stitch or knit the layers together and a beautiful piece of fabric is created.

During the workshop on the 12 of may the first thing we will do is have a closer look at the knitting of the mohair panels. There will be a brief explanation about the knit machine and we can see the fabric being knit especially for us. The mohair is knitted in white, light and dark grey. To do the laser tests there will be a choice in 3 different type of fabrics; cotton look, crepe and voile. Also there are several choices in shapes. All the fabrics come in white but after lasering your own lace you can give colour to the lace. By transferring a self prepared colour on paper on the lasered lace by ironing.

In the short movie you can have an idea what lasering on textiles is all about.



See you at the workshop on Tuesday 12/5/2009!

Library treasure IV

By: Jantiene van Elk

Knitting was for centuries a professional craft for both men and women. Knitting became a useful leisure activity for women from the middle class at the end of the eighteenth century. In times of war and economic malaise knitting as a means of providing for the need for clothing always gained in importance and it was par excellence a task for women.

This pattern book is a perfect illustration of knitting as a means of providing cheap clothing. The title gives this away: 'For big boys and girls from age 8-16 with leftover yarn'. Like most of these old pattern books, number 416 from the Groote Hollandsche Beyer-serie doesn´t have a date. It does remind me of a picture of my mother and her twin brother in their Holy Communion clothes. My mother hated the stiff clothes.

Voor groote jongens en meisjes van 8-15 jaar van resten uitgehaalde wol / Beyer. - Amsterdam Wereldmode, [s.a.]. (Groote Hollandsche Beyer-serie ; H 416)

The Art of Knitting : inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces

By: Jantiene van Elk

Francoise Tellier Loumagne has taught textile and knit design for more than thirty years. With this experience, she made a series of beautiful The Art of textile books. The books are an inspiration to professional textile designers and students and to anyone working with or with an interest in textiles.

About the The Art of Knitting :

"(...) I decided to create a book that will try to change the way in which knitted textiles are perceived, and so encourage readers to personally express themselves. I hope it will be a work that builds a bridge between technicians and vice versa, and that makes communication more 'objective' and more creative; a clear source of information that allows new pathways of innovation to be discovered." (from the Introduction by Francoise Tellier-Loumagne)

In the book you can find patterns for industrial and domestic knitting machines, and for hand knitting. The techniques for each are explained. Simple knits, jacquards, fine jersey knits, interlock, open work and many other fabric types are explained. Inspiration for the author is the natural world and one´s personal surroundings. The sources of inspiration and the fabrics are presented next to each other.

The Art of Knitting : inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces / Francoise Tellier-Loumagne. - London : Thames & Hudson, 2005.

Francoise Tellier-Loumagne´s other books (The Art of Embroidery and The Art of Felt) are also available in the Textile Museum´s library.

Library treasure III

By: Jantiene van Elk

After the First World War, women´s emancipation had a huge influence on fashion. A boyish look, with flat chest and little waist, was in fashion. Paul Poiret, parisian couturier, banned the corset.

At the same time, underwear became more comfortable. In this picture you can see some examples of this comfortable underwear. A camisole with straight nekcline, knickers, a camisole with a V-neckline, and a bra, all knitted.

Unfortunately the patterns for these underwear garments are missing, because I love 1930s fashion a lot!

Nieuw gehaakte en gebreide kleeding / Otto Beyer. - [s.i.] : Beyer, [ca. 1930]. (Beyer´s handwerkboeken : serie H ; nr. 63)

Stretch knitting yarn

By: Lise Lefebvre

The museum's Yarn Library (Garenbank) has recently sourced a new stretch yarn blend, very suitable for the advanced knitting technique called Knit and Wear. This specific technique makes it possible to knit entire garments, for instance sweaters or trousers, without seams. To render this possible, the Stoll knitting machines available at the TextielLab are engineered to use only every other needle of the needle beds to allow the stitches to be transfered from the front and back bed.

While it makes knitting elaborate tubular fabrics possible, it also makes the results very open, as the yarn "skips'' every other stich. This is where the stretch yarn comes in: in the knitting process the yarn is slightly stretched as it forms the stitches, and in turn creates a fuller, denser fabric when the knitting is finished. The elasticity of the yarn is also very helpful as it prevents the yarn from breaking in the very demanding movements of the needles during this special knitting process.

This particular yarn is a comfortable blend of Viscose and Elastil, a stretchy form of polyester. It has a very soft touch with a slight shine to it.

For more information, contact Lise Lefebvre at the Audax Textielmuseum Tilburg /Textile Lab.

Knitted Worlds in the TextileShop

By: Suzan Russeler

Christien Meindertsma is one of the designers whose knitted products are sold in the TextileShop of our museum. Her well-known stool, called Urchin Pouf, is knitted from thick felted woolen yarn. This oversized, stuffed stool can be used as soft seating or object to play with. Meindertsma also developed a special do-it-yourself-knitting-set with naturally dyed yarns.

Another interior product is the KaLaKabellampe by young German designer Jana Walliser. Walliser combines craftsmanship and industrial production ´hiding´ the power cord in a plastic tube of jointed elements and a knitted cover. The flexible tube plays the main part in the design. You can bend it in every shape you want. A knitted tube Walliser also used for a set of necklaces, available in different measurements and colours.

From knitting designer Petra Vonk beautiful, light scarfs from cotton or mohair combined with lace are available.

Do you feel inspired to knit yourself? In the shop you´ll find selected yarns like bamboo yarn, glow-in-the-dark-yarn or knitted linen ribbon.

Photo: Urchin Pouf and craft product by Christien Meindertsma, KaLaKabelLampe by Jana Walliser

Radical Lace & Subversive Knitting

By: Jantiene van Elk

In 2007 the exhibition Radical Lace & Subversive Knitting was held in the Museum of arts & Design in New York. It was curated by David Revere McFadden. Now, it´s a travelling exhibition (currently not on show). On the website of the exhibition you can find more information.

The exhibition was accompanied by a catalogue, which you can find in the textile museum´s library.

Photo: www.amazon.com

About the Avatar works

By: Chrystl Rijkeboer

Balaclava’s knitted from human hair & prints on Alumount 80x80 cm.
2006

Origin: Avatar
In Hindu (Sanskrit) philosophy, an avatar, avatara or avatarim most commonly refers to the incarnation.

Today: Avatar
Within the virtual world, in which people meet nowadays, one assumes a certain identity through a so-called avatar. This is an icon or photo, which accompanies the communication.

After the work ‘Stolen Identity’ it was a great pleasure for me to find the first balaclava (Avatar-Martine) in the magazine ‘Mc Call’s Needlework & Crafts’ from 1965. I was pleased to find this balaclava in an American magazine. See the post by Lise Lefebvre for pictures of the balaclavas in this magazine.

Today such a cap would be impossible in the Western world. Balaclavas are so emotionally charged, that ideas of an ordinary cap, which is funny and protects against cold, is not from this age anymore. Balaclava’s have a very different impact nowadays. The balaclava is a signal for society: ‘Watch out! Terrorism! and Danger!’

The other 'Avatar' items are made by own design. The faces on the balaclavas are very contemporary: Identity and the fear of loosing it, but also possibilities of choosing new / different identities in the digital world are nowadays issues.

The series portraits named Avatar show people wearing balaclavas made out of human hair. An estranged image in which the identity of the one becomes veiled with the hair of an other.
All models got a preference choice which Avatar to wear. Posing with their 'balaclava type' a surprising inner picture of the models arise.

Photo: Stolen Identity-family
Photo: Cover Mc Call’s Needlework & Crafts 1965
Photo: Avatar –Martine

Grannittin

By: Harco Rutgers

Grannittin is originally a live performance by Robert Witt in collaboration with ‘Mevrouw de Vries’, a knitted art project initiated by visual artist Anne Reijse. Witt's performance consisted of the live manipulation of sounds emitted from contact microphones attached to the knitting needles of the knitting ladies present at the opening of a ‘Mevrouw de Vries’ exhibition.
Robert Witt decided to release his recorded performance through esc.rec., a small record label and platform for adventurous music. Together they figured it could also be interesting to see what other artists would do with the same source material; the sound of knitting needles. Thus esc.rec. selected and invited artists to remix knitting sound as recorded by Robert Witt. 15 different artists (seasoned electronica pioneers and relative newcomers alike) came up with their own interpretations, enough to fill two cd's!

Some artists use the sounds of knitting needles as sole audio source for their piece, others incorporate them in their music. Some artists also recorded additional sources, like Gluid who recorded an elderly lady explaining the simple mechanics of knitting to all of us (in Dutch dialect).

All results are superb listening experiences. The remixes vary from abstract experiments and (complex) structures to warm electronics, (minimal) techno and tasty rhythms.

Grannittin was released as a double cd-r in a unique package, handmade with recycled knitted fabrics. You can listen to Grannittin in the Knitted Worlds exhibition. You can order Grannittin here.

Robert Witt - Grannittin (live in Het Langhuis) (mp3)
http://www.escrec.com/robertwitt/grannittin.mp3

"GAME ON" deel 2

By: Anne Reijse

Last (museum)weekend there were many knitters at the project "GAME ON" in the Textielmuseum. All kinds of people were knitting like crazy, as if they never did anything else before. There was a very nice atmosphere among the knitters.

Talented women were knitting like a fast train. How they did it , I don’t know. They were very, very fast. All kinds of people who never knitted before were trying to knit.

One game is ready now. Three must yet be finished, but soon you can see the small pieces and parts that are knitted. These small pieces and parts must be joined. Then you can see the games coming together.

"GAME ON" is growing in the right direction. We still need knitters!

Library treasure II

By: Jantiene van Elk

`Craft joy` is the title of a book by Everlasting, a yarn company in the Netherlands. The company organised a contest for women. A selection of the patterns by women from all over the Netherlands was published in this book. The book was published in the 1930s. It has beautiful full colour pictures. In the book are patterns for babies and children, women, and interior decoration, for example a carpet and a bed throw. Two pictures are really special: on the beach and in the bath room. Children and women all wear knitted or crocheted clothing. Even the bath mat and the beach towel are knitted. An additional picture, with all the craft pieces, is on another page.

Blogger Berthi wrote a blogpost on this book.

Handwerkvreugd : samengesteld door Nederlandsche huisvrouwen daartoe uitgenoodigd door de Everlasting-fabrieken. - 's-Hertogenbosch : Malmberg, [ca 1930]. -2e druk. 1e dr. : 1920.

Finger knitting

Children visiting the Textielmuseum can now learn how to finger knit. In our brand new Textile Academy children can learn this easy technique. And you can practise at home: just watch the video, get some yarn and start knitting.